Sarah Lawrence does a trip to southern France twice a year, once per semester, and each time to a different place (well, I imagine they repeat locations, but they do like to change it up a bit). When I was in the program in 2008/2009 we went to Provence, then Nice, with visits to nearby cities. I've only ever spent about an hour in Marseille, so I am looking forward to this trip. But let me start from the beginning:
I flew into Charles De Gualle airport Monday around 8:00am after a long but uneventful flight. I had planned to drop my bags off at the apartment of my couch-surfing host, an Italian hip-hop/break dance teacher named Sam Hutchy living in the 18eme, but upon turning on my french cell phone I spotted a message from him pleading that I arrive after 11:00 (he's a late sleeper) so went straight to work instead. This turned out to be an excellent choice as it meant I could leave my large bags in my office, and avoid dragging them across town and back. Metros really aren't built for people with luggage; turnstalls just don't accommodate large bags.
At Reid Hall, where I work, Monique welcomed me and showed me my office, then put me straight to work. I didn't mind; I needed something to do to stay awake the first day and adapt to the time-zone change. There are all of three staff members in the Sarah Lawrence in Paris program; me (the "assistant"), Natalie (assistant to the director), and Monique (director of the program). Natalie was away Monday taking care of her 11-month old who's beginning la crêche, the government-funded preschool that allows so many mothers to keep working after having kids. She had my position when I was a student in the program.
By this time I had been up for 20 hours or so, and both the pages I was correcting and the computer screen began to swim. Lunch break didn't help; it just made me yearn to lie down on the off-limits grass of the Garden of Luxembourg, so grabbed my backpack and left early, around 4pm, to find the Sam's apartment. I know, it's not an Italian name. "Sam" is short for "Issam"--his father's moroccan--but he goes by Sam. Sam was kind and perfectly welcoming. His apartment is located right at the food of the beautiful white church in Northern Paris, the Sacré Coeur. We spent the evening watching television music videos. He taught me some hip hop moves, and I a few Irish dance steps before crashing in his spare bed.
Sam was only able to host me one night, so I spent Tuesday night at a hostel in the 5eme (BVJ Quartier Latin) which, though a few euros more expensive than some other hostels, was both well-located and on of the nicest hostels I've ever stayed at in Paris.
Wednesday evening I met Amandine, the young woman renting me her apartment for a month. The apartment is fully furnished and it seems she rents it out to friends and family on a regular basis, but hasn't lived there in several years. Her apartment is in south Paris, 13eme, and aside from the stale cigarette smell it is an extremely comfortable (though expensive) little one-person apartment. Single person apartments and studios are just generally expensive in Paris. I'm paying 850 euros for this one, and it is only 24 square meters (79 square feet), Co-renting is significantly cheaper, though then one has to deal with a roommate. I can't tell you what a relief it is to have a space all to myself for the next month.
The first thing I did upon moving in was to buy a large bunch of basil, 3 heads of garlic and other salad fixings; tastes and smells from home! I couldn't help it.
Pony riders in the Jardin de Luxembourg
Tonight I guiltily bought a bottle of rosé to have with dinner, so cheers! I'll miss you, dear friends and family of the west coast. After such a beautiful summer, it was hard to leave the green Willamette Valley, but I'll be back sometime soon. Already cold winds are sweeping away the summer warmth in Paris and clouds are moving in. Soon I'll be glad for those coats and sweaters brought all the way from the US. Tomorrow I'll visit my dear friend Lidia in Rennes, and come back in time to get a good night's sleep before on Monday. Goodnight!
